Mount Avoca 2014 Limited Release Fumé Blanc, $32.50
This gentle, beautiful Sauvignon Blanc is about as far from your average Aussie Sav Blanc as you can get. The name is the first hint to its point of difference, Fumé Blanc suggesting a softer French style with subtle oak. Unlike the bright, sassy drink-now Sav Blancs that too many Aussies love, this one from Victoria’s cool-climate Pyrenees region has more complexity, flavour and texture, thanks in part to its wild yeast ferment, its organic grapes sourced from 33-year-old vines, and its fermentation in old French barrels. It’s drinking beautifully now, as we discovered at our shamelessly indulgent pre-Christmas feast, its creamy vanilla and peach notes pairing perfectly with seafood, salmon, pasta, salad and all manner of summer dishes. It’s also a keeper but you’ll have to be quick, as just 130 cases have been made.